Expeditions / Laila Peak

Description

Laila Peak in Hushe Valley has been climbed many times but no record is maintained by the tourism division of . It is hard to know the route and those who climb this beautiful peak. It can be climbed in two or three days from Base Camp easily.
Liala Peak is located in the Gondogoro Glacier in between Dalsangpa and Khuspang camping site. There are many Liala Peak in like Liala Peak 6985m in the Chogurunma Glacier, Haramosh Valley, which was first climbed by the Hekiryou Alpine Club of Japan in 1979. Laila Peak 5971m in Rupal Valley,
The height of Laila Peak in Hushe Valley is also controversial, some mentioned it 6200m and some mentioned it 6614m. Laila Peak is mark in only the Japanese map of 2003. Its distinctive spear-like shape sticking out in the sky has attracted trekkers passing by. According to the local guides there are some records of ascent on that mountain, but, neither the year of the first ascent nor its route is clear.
Laila Peak got attention when in 2005 Fredrik and Jorgen from Scandinavian countries announced climbing and ski down this beautiful mountain. Though they could not make the summit but they ski down some part of this beautiful mountain. They described its height as 6614m, and said that Laila Peak is one of the most amazing mountains they have ever seen, like a needle it points straight up in the sky. Its North West flank has a steepness of 45-50 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters. Early in the morning they starting at 2:30am from camp
5000m they continued climbing up the slopes of Laila and at sunrise they saw the magnificent view of K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum, they continue for eight hours and now the terrain got steeper and steeper, only a thin layer of snow is covering the slopes. 150 meters from the summit, they felt that there is no way they could ski in these icy conditions and decided to turn around. It was more then 1500 meters vertical meters down to the bottom.

The lower part of Laila Peak is cover with soft snow; the upper part is cover with thin layer of ice, one need ice axe, crampons, fix rope, ice crews, carabineers, gaiters etc. It is mixed ice climbing and rock climbing peak. From the summit one can see all the majors peaks of Karakoram including K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum.

Itinerary

Day 1	ARRIVAL RAWALPINDI Meeting at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad for Trekking Permit, Please note that Laila Peak area come under restricted zone for which a permit is required to trek.
Day 2	RAWALPINDI/SKARDU Fly to Skardu, If unable to fly, same day we will drive to Skardu, spending a night in Chilas.
Note: The cost of flight To/From Skardu or drive To/From Skardu is included in our price. Overnight hotel.
Day 3	SKARDU Emergency day in case, flight does not operate on day 02 this day will be use to transfer the members by road from Chilas to Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours. Overnight hotel.
Day 4	SKARDU Free day for rest, shopping or sightseeing. while staff will make final arrangement for the trek. Overnight at your choosen hotel. Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner included.
Day 5	SKARDU TO HUSHE AM : Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Hushe - The last inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. Highest in the region, the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells raven by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces. Overnight in tents. All meals served by camp staff.
Note :-The road to Hushe comes undergoing rapid erosion and gets closed quite often. If unable to jeep, the group will disembark & walk to Hushe on the same day or camp for overnight (subject to distance).Distance 140 Km, Drive 07-08 Hrs. Altitude M.
Day 6	HUSHEY TO SHAICHO Today we leave the last inhabited village. For the remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipments and sustain our expedition. Follow the east bank of the Hushey River along on a flat, easy path through fields of barley and peas, then turn east to follow the Charaksa River through scrubland and sparse willow woods toOdongstan, which is two hours from Hushey. This is a shepherds summer camp. A further hour takes you past the junction of the Gondogoro and Charaksa rivers, across a good wooden bridge to Shaitcho a large shepherds settlement with its won mosque, now here you can find a hotel and mountaineering equipment shop. This is the traditional first camp, where we will spent our first night among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. Overnight in tents All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 03 - 04 hrs, Grade : Easy, Altitude : M.
Day 7	SHAICHO -TO- GANDOGORO BROQ The path follows the highest ridge of the lateral moraine through roses, gooseberries, cedar and tamarisk bushes, with views left leading down across the glacier and back to sheer rock walls and jagged crags. The trek is dusty and stony a steady, but not too steep. We will come to the main summer settlement for overnight camping. Note: Stages 1 and 2 add up to only five - six hours walk from Hushey village and can easily be covered in one day by those who are fit. Walk : 03-04 hrs, Grade : Easy, Altitude : M
Day 8	GANDOGORO BROQ -TO- KHUSPANG/LIALA PEAK BASE CAMP 4500m Resume trek along the path continues towards north, outside of the lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The trekking path turns down the lateral moraine to the edge of the glacier, 300 to 400 metres beyond the last stream. The next hour is an unpleasant scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised above, ready to fall. The ordeal ends with a steep climb up a gully in the lateral moraine, into the base camp of LialaPeak on the glacier. Days you will spent on climbing Liala peak depend which route you choose either straight to the bottom of a huge and dangerous-looking serac or you will divert to its right while climb.
Day 9-15	ASCENT & DESCENT We have kept one week for you to climb Liala Peak. If climb early you may explore the surrounding area in remaining days.
Day 16	BASE CAMP -TO- SHAICHO Resume trek along the path, Keep yourself on the left side of the lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The next hour is an unpleasant scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised above, ready to fall. Continue your trek along the path goes down hill to the summer settlement called Shaicho, a large shepherds settlement with its won mosque, now here you can find a hotel and mountaineering equipment shop. This is the traditional camp among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. After a short break continue your walk along the Hushey river on a easy path. Upon arrival camp near the fields in Hushey village. Overnight in tents All meals served by camp staff. Walk : 06 - 07 hrs, Grade : Easy, Altitude : M.
Day 17	SHAICHO -TO- HUSHEY An easy day will bring you to Hushey village. Evening free. Overnight in tents.
Day 18	HUSHEY -TO- SKARDU AM : Embark jeeps for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to your choosen hotel. All meals included.
Day 19	SKARDU - RAWALPINIDI Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Gilgit. Overnight hotel.
Day 20	RAWALPINDI Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing. If unable to fly on day 25th. this day will be use to transfer from Gilgit to Islamabad by road.
Day 21	RAWALPINI De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism Islamabad. Evening transfer to airport for your onward flight to abroad.